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larry8200

USA
3166 Posts

Posted - 09/07/2012 :  13:14:01  Show Profile  Visit larry8200's Homepage Send larry8200 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Redoing a bad spot in my lawn where the sun always cooks it, and removing an old fence while I'm there.

I used:

3416H puller to pull out fence, and then the B-210 when I got it stuck..

3212H Weedcutter to clean up around bushes

3416H Dozer to start leveling/grading

B-210 with 10" Brinley Moldboard

And a 3415S with cart to pick rocks.

Now I got to go mow with the other 3212H. :)


















Cvans

USA
4407 Posts

Posted - 09/07/2012 :  15:53:11  Show Profile Send Cvans a Private Message  Reply with Quote
40 or 50 years ago you would have made an excellent sales brochure for Simplicity. Have fun.


East Central South Dakota

The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not.
Thomas Jefferson


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skunkhome

USA
12827 Posts

Posted - 09/07/2012 :  20:29:45  Show Profile Send skunkhome a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Wow, those look like very deep furrows. How deep are you plowing?

Phil



"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither safety nor liberty."

Benjamin Franklin
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larry8200

USA
3166 Posts

Posted - 09/08/2012 :  04:35:13  Show Profile  Visit larry8200's Homepage Send larry8200 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by skunkhome

Wow, those look like very deep furrows. How deep are you plowing?



I think about six inches. I would go deeper but I like plowing in 2nd, and its as deep as the B-210 will pull it without going to 1rst.

Actually, I'm just breaking up the sod before roto-tilling, and a ripper bar would be as good or better, maybe, and would pull much easier. I pronbably wouldn't bring as many rocks to the surface though.

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acb10_64

USA
801 Posts

Posted - 09/08/2012 :  05:38:01  Show Profile  Visit acb10_64's Homepage Send acb10_64 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Looks like fun! That plow sure comes in handy.

Wes



2 1964 Allis Chalmers B-10's

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skunkhome

USA
12827 Posts

Posted - 09/08/2012 :  10:00:34  Show Profile Send skunkhome a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Plowing in rocks, careful you don't break your coulter. I understand that they recommend removing the coulter when you are turning rocks. Of course it will rip the sod pretty badly rather than cut it. Is it true that rocks work their way to the surface each year as a result of the frost. This is all foreign to me as we don't have rocks and have a frost line of 2 inches.

Phil



"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither safety nor liberty."

Benjamin Franklin
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larry8200

USA
3166 Posts

Posted - 09/08/2012 :  10:14:32  Show Profile  Visit larry8200's Homepage Send larry8200 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by skunkhome

Plowing in rocks, careful you don't break your coulter. I understand that they recommend removing the coulter when you are turning rocks. Of course it will rip the sod pretty badly rather than cut it. Is it true that rocks work their way to the surface each year as a result of the frost. This is all foreign to me as we don't have rocks and have a frost line of 2 inches.



Wow, 2" frost line...

Building codes here specify permenant structures have five foot frost walls to prevent damage from frost heaves. Used to be four feet, but water lines at 4' that dont get used continuously (like a town water main) will freeze on a cold winter with no snow coverage for insulation.

The picturesque New England stone walls are the result of hundreds of years of picking the spring rocks from the fields before plowing. I have had a loader here twice working on my walls and its back breaking work no matter what.

I have my coulter set all the way up. With this anemic sod I'm turning up it doesn't seem to make much difference.

And yes! I am getting a nice "crop" of rocks, that are the beginning of a new wall.

I figure the 800' stone wall out front is close to 300 years old, and I consider it a "Work In Progress" :)

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olcowhand

USA
5115 Posts

Posted - 09/08/2012 :  10:26:48  Show Profile  Visit olcowhand's Homepage Send olcowhand a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Once the ground is worked up well, what are you doing to it....new grass seed, or something else entirely?

Daniel in Ky -- So much to do, so little time!




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skunkhome

USA
12827 Posts

Posted - 09/08/2012 :  10:42:38  Show Profile Send skunkhome a Private Message  Reply with Quote
If you poured a slab to park a car on how long would it last in that environment?

Phil



"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither safety nor liberty."

Benjamin Franklin
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larry8200

USA
3166 Posts

Posted - 09/08/2012 :  11:33:34  Show Profile  Visit larry8200's Homepage Send larry8200 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
We build garages on slabs, if all the topsoil is removed down to gravel, sand, or bedrock, then good gravel added as needed to bring back to proper grade and insure good drainage, then some good re-rod and/or re-enforcing mesh in the concrete to keep cracks from opening, the slab can last aslong as the building.

I am on a gravel base with a foot of topsoil give or take, and my shop built on a slab in 74 is in great shape, although the ground heaves unevenly and the latch on the front door usually misses the striker in the middle of winter. One more of the million little things that never get done.

Daniel, I thought there was to little topsoil but it looks like the soil is depleted there and just wont support thick turf that can withstand the summer sun. I am going to grade it out so its easier to mow, add some "nutrients" and re seed in October.

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Cvans

USA
4407 Posts

Posted - 09/08/2012 :  12:50:37  Show Profile Send Cvans a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Phil, we get temps down in the -30 range and have no problems with out buildings on slabs. It's the ones that get heated and cooled in the winter like my shop out back that start to break up and that has taken many years of abuse. Homes on slabs is something I have no experience with and can't comment on but our 20 year old garage still looks very good.


East Central South Dakota

The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not.
Thomas Jefferson


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larry8200

USA
3166 Posts

Posted - 09/08/2012 :  13:24:50  Show Profile  Visit larry8200's Homepage Send larry8200 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Cvans

Phil, we get temps down in the -30 range and have no problems with out buildings on slabs. It's the ones that get heated and cooled in the winter like my shop out back that start to break up and that has taken many years of abuse. Homes on slabs is something I have no experience with and can't comment on but our 20 year old garage still looks very good.



Yup, when everything freezes and heaves evenly there isn't a problem. Thankfully we usually only have a 2 week stretch where the temperature gets down into the -20's to near -30 every night. Cold!!

But I wouldn't build anything with drywall or anything nice on a slab.

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skunkhome

USA
12827 Posts

Posted - 09/08/2012 :  21:25:48  Show Profile Send skunkhome a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I think few in the deep south have any acquaintance with basements.

Phil



"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither safety nor liberty."

Benjamin Franklin
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ASEguy

319 Posts

Posted - 10/12/2012 :  06:57:34  Show Profile  Visit ASEguy's Homepage Send ASEguy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
In this case I think the B stands for Beast! Be careful, that B may bury itself. Gotta love the torque.

Gerard
1967 Allis B-110
1948 Allis model C
1949 Ford 8N (gift)
Gravely model L walk behind (gift)
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