I have never enjoyed doing fiber glass work so finishing the hood was something that was left till last. Every winter I say that I'm not going to do any painting till it's warm and dry and every winter I try it again. Turned out better on this project than the Kubota G4200 but still has a long way to go. First photo is the hood and scoop (air intake for the radiator) in the early stages. The next is in the finished stage.
East Central South Dakota
The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not. Thomas Jefferson
These shots are under the hood. At this time I'm not planning on installing the side panels. They will fit but i'm afraid they will restrict the air flow and my cause cooling problems. On top of that I like to see things if problems develop. I fabricated the muffler yesterday and it seems to do a good job of noise control. I can actually here the engine making diesel noises now. Graphics will be added to the hood when the weather warms.
The air filter is temporary and will be mounted in front of the radiator for cool air intake.
East Central South Dakota
The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not. Thomas Jefferson
Chris Looks real nice!!! Could you give some details on the muffler fabrication? I'm thinking of building one for my 16hp and always like to see what other people have done.
Being happy doesn't mean everything is perfect. It means you've decided to see beyond the imperfections.
I was limited by the room available so I used 3" auger tuber by 12" long for the outside. Used 14ga. for the end caps. For the holes on the end I used a hole saw the correct size and welded the intake pipe to the end cap. It does not extend into the muffler. The outlet pipe extends all the way into the muffler approx. 11.5 inches. There is a washer welded onto the end of this pipe inside the muffler. On three sides of the pipe inside the muffler I drilled a row of 5/16" holes. One side was left undrilled as it will be flat against the inside wall of the muffler and plug welded to the muffler. This elimates the chance for cracking from vibration. Weld the exhaust pipe to the end cap and then plug weld it to the muffler housing. Test fit and mark all joints before welding. That's about it. If your inlet and outlet pipes line up with each other I would make the outlet pipe inside the muffler shorter. I hope you are able to follow what I am getting at with this jibberish.
East Central South Dakota
The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not. Thomas Jefferson
Chris Yes I followed your description. Thanks. I was thinking of making mine with 2 chambers having both pipes extend into the center and being drilled then having the center plate drilled. I'm looking to quiet this down so I don't need ear plugs to mow the yard. lol
Being happy doesn't mean everything is perfect. It means you've decided to see beyond the imperfections.
First of all guys, Thank you very much for the compliments. It finally feels like it is coming together. I'll post pictures as soon as the graphics are applied. I haven't finalized the design yet but am getting close. Make that impatient.
Dale as far as your muffler design goes I'm sure it would work just fine. At least one of the internal pipes should be perforated to smooth out the power pulses. I think you would be surprised at how quiet this is and I was looking to fabricate as few pieces as possible. Kiss theory I guess. Also try and support your muffler to the engine. I have rubber mounts so this is mandatory. Let me know how yours works out as it seems good mufflers are always a needed item.
East Central South Dakota
The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not. Thomas Jefferson
Chris, that looks very nice. I really can't tell from your photos but for the side panels have you considered panels to the rear of the radiator to eliminate the possibility of short circuit? I know that on my G5200 great care was taken to isolate the back from the front. I am assuming from the model number on the tank top that is an oversized radiator for that two cylinder.
Phil
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither safety nor liberty."
Thanks for the reminder Phil. I do have material to seal around the radiator to stop recirculation of the heated air. It's not visible as you say but the sides and bottom are already restricted. The top and has to be done yet. The radiator is out of a Kubota B7100 which is the same horse power as this engine. They both use thermo-siphon coolant circulation. I'm hoping that this will cure my cooling problems. I also purchased an adjustable temperature cooling fan switch so I can get the fan running at lower temperatures. The fan is out of a 1991 Nissan Sentra and should be moving plenty of air. It's about all the little dynamo can handle for current load. I do have the option and parts to install another dynamo but I'm hoping that won't be necessary.
East Central South Dakota
The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not. Thomas Jefferson
Chris, can you get a pic of the rear mower mount. I bought a parts tractor, can't find a model # 18 hp onan eliminator maybe, anyway trying to adapt the mower deck to my dgt 1700. thanks