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skunkhome
USA
12829 Posts |
 Posted - 03/22/2011 : 22:13:17
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I am wanting to put my old tiller back in service since it is really getting to be a pain to use the walk behind.
The tiller looks to be complete with extension kit but it is on rough shape.
there is a tremendous amount of stack in the chain drive and the bearings are shot.
I tried to remove the tines so that I could get at the bearings but they would not budge. I currently have it soaking in solvent. 
I was thinking of Selling the extension kit but it appears the tines are welded together..and by someone with about the same skill level as I.
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  Phil
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither safety nor liberty."
Benjamin Franklin |
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freddie
USA
2129 Posts |
Posted - 03/22/2011 : 22:29:22
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well phil. heres what i have to say. the tines are a pain in the ass to get off. oxy/asetalene and a bfh is the only way they will come off. it took me two hours to get mine off
oh, and a busted finger to boot. |
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skunkhome
USA
12829 Posts |
Posted - 03/22/2011 : 23:07:32
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| We used to take ours off with little or np problem when I was a kid. Nothing heavier than a 16 oz claw hammer. Im guessing the sprockets are bad as well as the chain. |
Phil
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither safety nor liberty."
Benjamin Franklin |
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Cvans
USA
4415 Posts |
Posted - 03/23/2011 : 00:10:13
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Sure too bad that hadn't been soaking in a bath of diesel fuel for about six months. Dang that looks like work to me. Might be easier to let it soak and use the walk behind for a little while yet. I know how it is when one gets the urge to do something though. Heck with the torpedoes, full speed ahead!
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East Central South Dakota
The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not.
Thomas Jefferson
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skunkhome
USA
12829 Posts |
Posted - 03/23/2011 : 07:51:41
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| It has been sitting for over a year but I am getting to where I am allergic to just about anything with handles. |
Phil
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither safety nor liberty."
Benjamin Franklin |
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tractorjoe
USA
381 Posts |
Posted - 03/23/2011 : 08:18:50
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.It isn't a complicated design. I've seen where someone blew a chain in one and then had to open it up and replace the chain. He was able to get the chain non-name-brand from somewhere else, by the way.
I'd be using some PB spray to try freeing up what I can first. The rust on the tines will work its way off with use. |
- Joe
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Edited by - tractorjoe on 03/23/2011 08:20:09 |
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Cvans
USA
4415 Posts |
Posted - 03/23/2011 : 09:12:23
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The tines on that tiller appear to be in very good condition. Who ever had it didn't have much sand or gravel in their soil or it was used very little. I'm not much for "handle tools" either. I gave my big old Airens rear tine tiller to my Daughters family because it was too hard on my back.
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East Central South Dakota
The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not.
Thomas Jefferson
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cschmidt62
USA
560 Posts |
Posted - 03/23/2011 : 09:12:41
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If it's like the one I have, which it looks very simular, I was able to replace just the chains. If my memory is correct mine used both standard #40 & #50 roller chain available at any farm supply store.
My sprockets had some wear but I found most of the issue was the chain had stretched over the years. After putting it back together it ran quieter than it ever ran since I've owned it. |
Artificial Intelligence is no match for Natural Stupidity |
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tractorjoe
USA
381 Posts |
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oldsarge
USA
688 Posts |
Posted - 03/23/2011 : 12:20:42
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| As rough as that thing looks,I think I'd fill it full of grease and put it in the ground until it totally quit,then fix it. Nothing to lose! $.02 |
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cschmidt62
USA
560 Posts |
Posted - 03/23/2011 : 13:36:23
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| You could always drop it in the ground with the tine bolts out, maybe that would shake em loose...lol |
Artificial Intelligence is no match for Natural Stupidity |
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doyoucesp1965
USA
102 Posts |
Posted - 03/23/2011 : 17:20:35
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| I am a little new to the tractor tiller thing but... I have a question and as long as we be on the subject of tillers now the perfect time to ask.. I have 3 tractors and was wondering just what i need to attach it to either a 3310V 912 hydro and I beleave a 3418h..Have the mule drive for the back... Tiller in question is off a B-10..much like Phill's rite now...Any help would be good before i repost it on E.bay |
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skunkhome
USA
12829 Posts |
Posted - 03/23/2011 : 22:21:27
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quote:
Originally posted by oldsarge
As rough as that thing looks,I think I'd fill it full of grease and put it in the ground until it totally quit,then fix it. Nothing to lose! $.02
Really?!, I didn't think of that option since the tine shaft was so sloppy. |
Phil
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither safety nor liberty."
Benjamin Franklin |
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simplelife
USA
1385 Posts |
Posted - 03/23/2011 : 22:44:29
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Can you get the cross bolts/pins out? If so, here is what a fella told me to do. Soak - soak - soak - soak with PBlaster or similar. After allowing several applications and letting it soak between applications, use two pry bars, one inserted in each side between the tines. Lock one down or get someone to help hold it so you can twist the tines back and forth. This might take several tries over a period of time. Heating the area before applying the penetrant will a lot of times allow is to soak in a little more while the metal is expanded.
If you get them to turn a little, keep working them back and forth. If a BFH won't move them off the shaft, you will need to insert a rod inside the tine housing until it bottoms against the actual shaft, then use a puller hooked to the tines and screwing against the rod you inserted. You may need multiple lengths of rod to finish the process. With the puller installed and pressure on, heat the area and keep tightening the puller. Using an impact driver on the puller might help also.
Also, stand the tiller on end and pour some penetrant down the tine tubes so it will soak in around the internal shafts. |
Edited by - simplelife on 03/23/2011 22:50:43 |
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stangstud1
8 Posts |
Posted - 03/24/2011 : 07:38:32
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| Maybe it's because I'm so impatient, but soaking rusted stuff never appealed to me. When it was feasible, I have had really good luck heating stuff like that up cherry red, then quenching it with cold water. It breaks the bond the rust has on the parts. I've done this on tiller tines, sheave pulleys on engines, and the center pivot point on tractors like a 738 has. Just use caution when gasoline is involved. |
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skunkhome
USA
12829 Posts |
Posted - 03/26/2011 : 00:57:38
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I did not get to the tiller but I managed to get started on the frozen up mule drove. I quickly found that someone had applied a heavyt hammer to the pulley sleeve assembly #105166 and had turned the end over into a mushroom preventing its removal from the idler lever assembly #105177 .
After much filing, grinding and sanding I manager to remove the displaced metal and finally get the assembly apart. If you are afraid to get your hands dirty than you are probably involved in the wrong hobby.
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Phil
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither safety nor liberty."
Benjamin Franklin |
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Tiller needs help, I need help
