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T O P I C    R E V I E W
jim390fe Posted - 02/03/2010 : 18:43:35
Just picked up this 1968 A-C b-112 with a plow and a nice set of cast iron Bolens wheel weights, which worked out really good because I had a set of A-C wheel weights on my '64 Bolens 800... funny how things work out sometimes.



I really need to stop buying tractors now I'm up to 11 in all, Well... maybe just 1 more.
15   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
skunkhome Posted - 02/09/2010 : 21:58:01
quote:
Originally posted by sleepy

Phil any good machine shop can do this with their lathe. Powering out will give you left hand threads. Alan

Key words here is "Good machine shop"
sleepy Posted - 02/09/2010 : 20:22:47
Phil any good machine shop can do this with their lathe. Powering out will give you left hand threads. Alan
skunkhome Posted - 02/09/2010 : 15:10:53
quote:
Originally posted by jim390fe

quote:
Originally posted by Denny

Shorten that rod up,, it will add spring pressure , and in turn add idler pressure,, I promise ,,lol
Even a half inch will make a big difference.



Thanks, I'm going to have to try that, but like Phil said, I might make it from scratch from some rod stock I have this way if I screw up I'll still have the factory one to fall back on, lol!!

another idea is to make a new one cut it in two and thread it for a turnbuckle so that I can make it adjustable.(don't know where to get a LH die)
jim390fe Posted - 02/09/2010 : 09:56:00
quote:
Originally posted by Denny

Shorten that rod up,, it will add spring pressure , and in turn add idler pressure,, I promise ,,lol
Even a half inch will make a big difference.



Thanks, I'm going to have to try that, but like Phil said, I might make it from scratch from some rod stock I have this way if I screw up I'll still have the factory one to fall back on, lol!!
skunkhome Posted - 02/09/2010 : 09:07:08
I have some rod stock. It might just be better to make a new one.
Denny Posted - 02/09/2010 : 07:48:41
Shorten that rod up,, it will add spring pressure , and in turn add idler pressure,, I promise ,,lol
Even a half inch will make a big difference.
skunkhome Posted - 02/08/2010 : 21:45:08
Jim, sound like you could be standing thre looking at my tractor describing the clutch. Just way to much slop.
jim390fe Posted - 02/08/2010 : 20:30:34
Had another chance to try out the vari-speed on the B-112 today, Its seems like is driving and plowing fine. adjusting these are definately a compromise... if you turn the adjustable turnbuckle to shorten it too much you lose the low range through the adjustment, make it too long it'll get too sloppy and start to slip, and there is a fine line between these adjustments to find that sweet spot! (Like most things I guess). I believe most of my problems lie within my clutch return spring, it is too weak to engage the belt, (I have to manually pull the clutch pedal back with my foot) and the bushing for my idler arm & pulley is worn out (creating more unnecessary slop). Once I get those things corrected I think I'll be in pretty good shape. (I hope )
skunkhome Posted - 02/07/2010 : 12:54:46
quote:
Originally posted by jim390fe

Phil, Is there any way to change the geometry of the belt to get it away from rubbing on the axle tube, and still be able to run through the ranges? I dont think that it would be any good over time as these axles tend to have a weak point on that side near the outboard differential.

I am sure there is a way but I am sure Simplicity would have done it differently if it had worked well. Let face it they went through a great deal of effort to reverse the action of the idler on the vari-speed and the shuttle, introducing more slop and creating additional parts on the idler assembly alone. I have been thinking that it needs a belt guide to just keep the belt from going through those huge oscillations while running. After all the belt does not touch the axle when the belt is stationary. But when you think about it my B112 is 43 years old and it is probably the original axle tube and it is not cut just polished.
jim390fe Posted - 02/07/2010 : 05:36:15
Phil, Is there any way to change the geometry of the belt to get it away from rubbing on the axle tube, and still be able to run through the ranges? I dont think that it would be any good over time as these axles tend to have a weak point on that side near the outboard differential.
skunkhome Posted - 02/06/2010 : 20:33:27
Jim, I'm kinda with you but I do know they work as we had a brand new 312D which was a variable. The thing that I did not like about it is it tended to loose traction in the low ranges. If you wanted to pull a heavy load they recommended you use a lower gear range and run the variable in the higher ranges.
jim390fe Posted - 02/06/2010 : 18:15:20
I got a chance to fiddle around with mine today, same thing you guys are experiencing, what seems to be a sloppy belt that you cant adjust enough, and a shiny axle tube to boot! I thought about getting a new belt, but mine measures 53 3/4" and new ones cross out to be a 54" belt, so I don't think it'll help that much plus at $60 a pop I dont want to take a chance! This is my first vari-drive tractor, I like the regular 3 speed setups (typical on the round hood models) and the hydro on my Sovereign, but I'm starting to think maybe the variable drive wasn't the best idea they had.
skunkhome Posted - 02/06/2010 : 13:28:44
My Shuttle and Variable both have shiny axle tubes. Don't like it much but I guess it really doesn't hurt. The old 3 speeds like the B10 and B1 had a different set up where the idler pushed up on the belt to engage the clutch where the Shuttle and Variable work the opposite way.
B-16_IC Posted - 02/06/2010 : 10:00:24
All the variables I have have no paint or grease on the right axle tube, they have all rubbed. The B-210 is quite shiny. I agree, something was missed there.
jim390fe Posted - 02/05/2010 : 21:08:03
Thanks for the info Denny, I have some spare time tommorrow (Saturday) I'll check it then, and let every one know what I come up with. Hopefully It'll be good news with a just a simple adjustment.

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