| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| ozzman232001 |
Posted - 05/30/2009 : 18:29:53
I got this B110 today for forty dollars. Its in pretty bad shape but I think it still has some hope. It came with the deck, and most everything is original i think. i posted some pictures. Since my B1 runs great I am going to attempt to restore this one, I think it is worth it. This will be my first attemp in restoring a tractor but what better way to learn.
This is the decal on the side of the engine.
Front end, still has intact grill and emblem
Both sides still have the decals intact
This is the spec sheet under the little hood scoop.
I notic the drive pully on this one is different then my B1, is this a different style or a different type?
The tags with the serial and model number, still in nnice condition.
not sure if this is the original steering wheel or not though.
 |
| 15 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| ozzman232001 |
Posted - 06/05/2009 : 15:34:54
well im not doing a "factory restoration" on it. the muffler is coming off to be replaced with a chrome side stack , kinda give it the Big Alley look. That and a different sit is going to be going on it, im keeping the original one and getting it re done but i dont like the arm rest on it, not enough room for my liking. After all said and done after the tractor is done i got a small trailer im going to re-do with wooden floor and wooden sides with a nice stain and high varnish to be pulled behind it, and in the back of the trailer in the wood im going to have Allis Chalmers burned into it. I go to alot of hit n miss engine shows and stuff like that and this is what im planing on taking with me to show. Basically its just a summer project for me, and to see what i can do. |
| 7010b1 |
Posted - 06/05/2009 : 14:23:29
sounds good don't for get the set screw on the steering wheel. "split the tractor" is between the BGB and frame. and as far as that goes your taking it all down for paint. if you have a 4 1/2" grinder you can get a wire cup brush for it. I have used them in the past and work great. why are you taking the muffler off for? |
| ozzman232001 |
Posted - 06/05/2009 : 13:24:39
im taking the tractor completly apart, rear end and all, giving it all a fresh new thick coat of paint. the switches are front head lights, rear lights and the white one is a safty switch. you have to turn the key, push the safty switch in then hit the start button. I looked in my book and some of of the b110 came like this. As for what i am using, well basically all hand tools. I am going to sand blast the rims, but the rest gets the wire brush and electric sander treatment. As for spliting the tractor, not sure what you mean im new at this but everything that comes apart on the fram and such is coming off. Just not going to open the rear end or anything like that, it works fine. Right now im redoing the engine, have to go pick up some parts and work on geting the muffler off but its just about done. |
| 7010b1 |
Posted - 06/05/2009 : 03:23:54
unbolt the steering wheel under buy the steering gear "on the frame" then lift up the wheel the plastic will slide then. I like to use a air hammer for wheel removal. "less damage". Or just take off the bat/gas, dash cowl, and then you can stay dry when you work.
and yes the mags will hit hard. been there done that and yelled as well.
it also looks like time for the car wash, or hose.
are you going to split the tractor?
sand blast or wire wheel? I do both.
what dose all those switches do? on the dash.
doing good keep it up. |
| Roy |
Posted - 06/04/2009 : 21:09:13
Humm, think I would remove the spacer. Could cause unwanted problems due to vibrations. Have seen such things wear holes/derpressions in steel tanks, pipes, etc. |
| ozzman232001 |
Posted - 06/04/2009 : 15:58:30
thanks for the pic. Ya i thought someone droped a spacer as well, so i mounted the engine back in there and with the engine mounted that "spacer" wont move, so im thinking it might be something to keep the vibration down or something like that. |
| Denny |
Posted - 06/04/2009 : 15:37:20
I like mysterys ,,I was about to say,, it looks like someone dropped the spacer from the driveshaft coupler,, and look what I found on a 110 frame,,, perfect outline,, same place,,,hmmmm.
Heres a shot of the Hi Lo
 |
| ozzman232001 |
Posted - 06/04/2009 : 12:17:07
Well I got alot done so far, almost down to the fram now. Here are some pics and a few questions as well.
Heres the engine, got it apart and checked for spark, turns out it throws good spark, but im missing the points and condensor cover, im going to have to find one or fabricate one.
Heres is front end, youll notice right in the middle there is a little round space that sits under the engine. Im not sure if that is supose to be there or in the past someone was working on the tractor and droped it, only thing is when the engine is on the fram that part will not move so im thinking it may belong there. The next picture is a close up of it so you all can see what i am talking about.
Here is the close up, when the engine is bolted down tha pat can not move so maybe it belongs there.
this is how far i got so far, its been raining here all week so not much to do. Right now im making a pulle to remove the steering wheel, the ones i have the jaws are to thick to fit under the wheel whithout damaging the plastic shrowd. And if any one has a picture of the hi-lo set up for the B1 and could pst a piture of it, that would be great, im looking for one for my B1 but have no idea what im looking for. It would be nice to be able to till the ground up without riding the brakes....lol. |
| 7010b1 |
Posted - 06/04/2009 : 03:56:42
just keep us posted on your progress. and yes ask a way. hand tools are ok but air tools is the way to go. there better to brake old bolts louse. they ether brake loose or brake, and not your hands. also buy some pb blaster and soak the bolts the night before. good luck |
| ozzman232001 |
Posted - 06/01/2009 : 15:37:28
Iv been taking pictures. (alot of them) im going to make a new post under the restoration section to show you all my progress. so you can look there for further pictures and updates. I got some many questions about this project but just dont know were to start. Hopefully in the future someone here will be able o answer a few, you all been a big help so far. Thanks
|
| B112 |
Posted - 06/01/2009 : 04:22:11
Good fine. Funny, but I've got two B110's in about the same or worse shape. One every bolt is where it was from the factory except the engine was disassembled some; that one will take a lot of liquid wrench! The other may donate it's life for the other. Or come alive... As for price, I bought a B10 and the B110 came as parts machine for $300 a few years back so good price. The B10 drove and will again one day soon. |
| 7010b1 |
Posted - 06/01/2009 : 01:16:53
good save on the 67-68 b110. you can always add a flang for the pull rope.... as always take pictures of disassemble process it helps you out a lot as well as us. |
| ozzman232001 |
Posted - 05/31/2009 : 00:24:07
Thanks for that little info on the pulley, I just noticed it was different. Now that you say that i realize the 110 dosnt have the flang for the pull rope. Like I said this is all new to me, Im trying to learn all i can. Thanks again |
| skunkhome |
Posted - 05/31/2009 : 00:19:01
Ken, you wrote, "I notic the drive pully on this one is different then my B1, is this a different style or a different type?"
It is a different set up than your B-1. The late model B-10, B-12 were the last of the tractors that could be started manually with a rope on the BGB. By the time the B-110 came out Ralph Nader's Consumer Products Safety Commission was hot and heavy on the garden tractor manufacturers. |
| ozzman232001 |
Posted - 05/31/2009 : 00:18:10
ya, Im going to take my good old time with this project. Im a stay at home dad so I got nothin but time on my hands. I figure this will be a nice project for my boy and I, school only has 5 days left so we need something to keep us out of trouble..lol Its not really going to be an "original" restore, but when all is said and done it will be kinda close. |
