| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| coldr |
Posted - 04/14/2020 : 19:28:09
My 7013S Baron has started running rough at high speed. It coughs, misses and backfires; but it starts easily and runs fine at low speed. The point gap is right and the carb is clean and set up properly. What else should I look at? Timing? Thanks. |
| 15 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| coldr |
Posted - 04/21/2020 : 15:05:04
It is original as far as I know. I paid $1,000 for it 12 years ago. It came with a mowing deck, tiller, snow plow, molding plow, grading blade, rock rake (homemade), and sickle bar. Best money I ever spent. I did lose the welsh plug a few years back, but caught it in time and got away with honing the cylinder and replacing the rings. |
| skunkhome |
Posted - 04/20/2020 : 14:20:04
Watch that back firing...I’ve lost a few welsh plugs over the years. My brother pretty much killed his engine after blowing out his plug without knowing. Sucked in a ton of dust. |
| skunkhome |
Posted - 04/20/2020 : 14:15:23
Are you running the original engine in that tractor, Denis? My ole 13hp finally got too tired to press on leading me to have to repower to a Briggs 16 hp. Gosh that was 6-7 years ago. Hard to believe I’ve owned my 3414 for almost 13 years now. |
| coldr |
Posted - 04/19/2020 : 19:08:18
It was a wise man who said “Try the easy things first.” Either the condenser or the the connection was bad. Changing it solved my problem. Thanks everyone for the help. Much appreciated. |
| midnightpumpkin |
Posted - 04/18/2020 : 11:29:45
No the universal module will not fix a bad coil, but it will eliminate any issues with points or condenser.
You can buy one for just over $15 on e-bay, it takes 5 minutes to install and everything can be put back to orginal if it does not solve the problem.
Worth a try?
John U |
| coldr |
Posted - 04/18/2020 : 10:35:27
I mowed with the tractor yesterday but only at about 2000 RPM and it was fine but a bit rough. Over that and it skips, sputters and backfires. |
| coldr |
Posted - 04/18/2020 : 10:33:20
It looks like two different ways to approach the problem. I was considering an electronic coil like: https://www.amazon.com/OakTen-Replacement-Ignition-Briggs-Stratton/dp/B07MJM649W
The universal module won’t fix a bad coil, will it? My question about setting the timing referred to the electronic coil., which sounds like the best bet for my problem. My tractor is performing just like a 175 Kawasaki dirt bike I owned 50 years ago. When I opened the throttle all the way, the power just dropped, usually at the steepest part of a hill. It was a bad coil then. |
| Cvans |
Posted - 04/18/2020 : 10:14:58
Thanks Phil. Just the information I was looking for. This morning I was wondering how that thing knew when to fire. |
| midnightpumpkin |
Posted - 04/18/2020 : 01:09:58
Byron, non of the above.
I am a retired electrical engineer and I have to say it works by majic.
You mount it to a good ground, tin on the engine is fine, connect one wire to the ground point and the other wire to the wire coming from the coil that normally goes to the points, the kill wire from the ignition switch also still connects to the wire from the points.
The module somehow senses the magnetic field when the flywheel magnet approaches the coil and opens the coil circuit at the right time to produce a spark.
It would not work on a Kohler with an external coil, but it is the perfect solution to eliminate points and condenser on a single cylinder Briggs.
I have run one of these on my 7010 for about 10 years, it is the most reliable starting engine in my fleet.
On the other hand, if the coil is bad on a Briggs, converting to a battery ignition with a Kohler coil is a good option.
John U |
| ByronC |
Posted - 04/17/2020 : 13:10:06
quote:
Originally posted by midnightpumpkin
I have had very good results with these universal ignition modules. The replace the points and condenser, but use the original coil. Very easy to install.
https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/ignition-module/p/33-053
John U
John, it doesn’t show how it mounts. How does it work? Does the plunger that opens and closes the points operate it or do you mount it next to the flywheel and degree it in? |
| midnightpumpkin |
Posted - 04/16/2020 : 21:03:21
I have had very good results with these universal ignition modules. The replace the points and condenser, but use the original coil. Very easy to install.
https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/ignition-module/p/33-053
John U
|
| coldr |
Posted - 04/16/2020 : 14:58:43
Well, it wasn’t the plug. I’ll wait a bit to see if anyone else has experience with the electronic ignition system. I can’t find any info on how to adjust the time with that system, but it seems like it has to be installed in the proper position relative to the flywheel just like the original armature. |
| Cvans |
Posted - 04/16/2020 : 12:31:35
I've never done it but please keep us updated on how you did it. |
| coldr |
Posted - 04/15/2020 : 19:55:22
I’ll replace the plug tomorrow. If that doesn’t do the trick I’ll pull the engine. If I have to do that I’d like to convert to an electronic (pointless) system. Have any of you done this? My Briggs is a 302431. Do you know of one available on Amazon that will fit? |
| Cvans |
Posted - 04/15/2020 : 13:02:57
Have you tried changing the spark plug? Try the easy things first. A spark plug that shows spark might not fire under compression. |
