| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| Roy |
Posted - 01/18/2010 : 22:29:45
Had to use a come-a-long to pick up my 16 hp Briggs which was a PITA as it goes up easily but only comes down a few notches at a time.
Solved the problem. Now it will be easy to raise/lower engines and tractors.
Harbor Freight sales are hard to resist. |
| 15 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| Cvans |
Posted - 06/16/2010 : 15:41:20
I could have gotten by with smaller channel irons also but they were on hand so that's what I used. I've always been one to over build things in the name of safety. Probably wasted a lot of money because of this but Oh Well.
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| B112 |
Posted - 06/15/2010 : 22:41:02
The engine shop which rebuilt my engine uses one of the smallest I-Beams with an electric 1000lbs hoist. Scary sight but he dyno's many engines in that garage, he's not dropped one yet. |
| Cvans |
Posted - 06/15/2010 : 22:29:06
What I ended up doing was making a beam out of two pieces of 5" channel back to back. I place straps between the channel irons at something like 18" intervals. These are flush with the channel irons on the bottom and stick up about 6" above the top. They have one hole drilled in each one so that the part sticking up can be bolted to the side of the 2"x12" that runs across the rafters. I purchased one of those hoist trollies like Daniel pictured and it runs in the home made beam with the hoist hanging under it. The hoist ended up about 10' off of the ground. I then built an elevated work platform to drive or pull the tractors up onto so I could work on them without having to bend over. Actually worked out better than I hoped for and I didn't have a lot invested in it.
Thanks for the idea though. I will keep it in mind if I want to do something lighter in my other garage or hangar. |
| Leroy |
Posted - 06/15/2010 : 19:36:54
quote:
Originally posted by Cvans
Back to Roy's original post. I now have my hoist mounted to a 2 x 12 below the rafters. I would like to put up a 5ft piece of rail so I can move the lifted object to one side. You guys have been around as much as I, what would you suggest for the rail and rollers?
Thanks for letting me pick you minds!
Chris
I'm thinking about the weight of that rail. And the support for each end. I guess if i wanted to turn a corner, rollers on garage doors hung on the both sides of your 2 X 12 would carry it. A Home grown ply-laminate 2 x 12 with the radius. you want stacked layer by layer until the 2 X 12 radius is built up. This would be cheap and effective.
A 50 Gallon Oil can could serve as a template. Each layer would need to be pressed until cured. The press could be something as simple as another section Oil drum clamped to the mold. Half a drum is 90° Metal plates would join the radius to the existing 2x12 Then the other side would need the be supported to the wall or another 2 x 12 to the wall.
A garage door is pretty heavy and the weight distribution per panel is like two wheels. You could up your wheel count so the spacing is much closer. Putting the bend in the rails for that radius is going to be the challenge. But with a bit of relief cutting before bending and wire-feed welding scraps in the v's, I do believe it would work as good as an automotive assembly conveyor line.
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| olcowhand |
Posted - 01/22/2010 : 19:29:37
quote:
Originally posted by Cvans
Back to Roy's original post. I now have my hoist mounted to a 2 x 12 below the rafters. I would like to put up a 5ft piece of rail so I can move the lifted object to one side. You guys have been around as much as I, what would you suggest for the rail and rollers?
Thanks for letting me pick you minds!
Chris
Down in our farm shop, we have a 12" steel I-beam running the length of the 30' shop. Bought a trolley from Harbor Freight & can simply glide the chain hoist all along it. With the long length, we can't pull too heavy an object toward the center of beam, but we do most lifting work near the rear end of the beam anyway, where we can park the tractor/whatever to the side allowing driving through shop into the rest of the barn (where we raise calves).
Just get you a chunk of I-beam as long as you need & mount up there. You wouldn't need 12" beam though. Here's the trolley.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40493
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| BRAD1975 |
Posted - 01/22/2010 : 18:30:37
quote:
Originally posted by Cvans
Back to Roy's original post. I now have my hoist mounted to a 2 x 12 below the rafters. I would like to put up a 5ft piece of rail so I can move the lifted object to one side. You guys have been around as much as I, what would you suggest for the rail and rollers?
Thanks for letting me pick you minds!
Chris
I would either build one with steel plates and shopping cart wheels or shop around and it you may be surprised at how cheap an already made one is
heres one on sale for only $69 Can
http://www.princessauto.com/shop-garage/repair-equipment/shop-hoist-and-trolleys/8203655-1-ton-trolley?keyword=trolley
it really doesnt look hard to make one but either way I would get the I-beam first and work around whatever size you find...try the local steel yard/wreckers....I scrap a lot of cars and theres always nice beams set aside from building demos at those places |
| skunkhome |
Posted - 01/22/2010 : 10:08:02
Dung is most easily moved with a scoop shovel or manure fork. |
| Cvans |
Posted - 01/22/2010 : 09:44:47
"hang yer old crapsman on a meat hook,, and out the door !!"
That got a laugh out of me Denny! What a great way to start the day.
Thanks,
Chris |
| Denny |
Posted - 01/22/2010 : 08:17:58
I missed the boat one time,, they had an auction at an old meat locker,, prob had a 1/2 mile of that 2-3" rail,, with turns and intersections. They sold it all for less than scrap price. Boy, would that be handy now !!!! Just think,, hang yer old crapsman on a meat hook,, and out the door !! |
| B112 |
Posted - 01/22/2010 : 01:15:14
I had my 600-800lbs chevy big block engine moved on one of the smallest I-Beams you'd see. The dyno garage had an I-Beam, I think about 2" tall with a trolley and the 1000lbs electric hoist. He would wheel the engine diagonally from a garage into the dyno room. You'd be surprised how small of an I-Beam he used. |
| Cvans |
Posted - 01/21/2010 : 22:53:23
Back to Roy's original post. I now have my hoist mounted to a 2 x 12 below the rafters. I would like to put up a 5ft piece of rail so I can move the lifted object to one side. You guys have been around as much as I, what would you suggest for the rail and rollers?
Thanks for letting me pick you minds!
Chris |
| olcowhand |
Posted - 01/21/2010 : 21:28:53
I do still lift some heavy stuff, but more careful "how" I do the lifting. Younger years I plain used my back...now use my legs instead of bending my back. If position requires bending...I get something to do the lifting for me. My younger years of back problems were a sciatic nerve pinched. Never had it since then & never want it again! |
| B-16_IC |
Posted - 01/21/2010 : 21:16:08
Don't use your back to lift your ego, that's one intelligent statement there! I just wish I could follow it. |
| Cvans |
Posted - 01/20/2010 : 19:27:21
Young and stupid is equal to, 3 blown disc, 2 compressed vertebrae, and multiple bone spurs. All in a 4 inch area of the lower back. I'm not proud of this and the pain can be real nasty. I just hope that I can prevent someone else from making the same mistakes I did.
Think before you lift! Don't use your back to lift your ego!
Chris |
| olcowhand |
Posted - 01/20/2010 : 13:47:20
My problems are limited to joints & ligaments. Arthritis makes work stay with me. Like when working all afternoon on the new pole building swinging a hammer or whatever. Takes a couple or 3 days before the soreness in joints lets up. Doesn't stop me at all, but slows me down for sure. Went through back pain in my 20's and not many problems since with back pain....just plain lucky with things I lift though. |
