| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| B10Dave |
Posted - 09/30/2017 : 19:39:40
I bought some 1 3/4 in square tubing and an IHC U4 power unit at an Amish farm auction last Thursday. Today I started building a cart to set the power unit on. Two surplus Simplicity front axles and some tubing and angle iron pieces resulted in this. I still need to add a tongue and steering linkages before I mount the power unit.
This is the unit I bought. I had to remove the tank and some sheet metal so nothing got bent when I loaded it to come home. It is all there and turns but the crank and spark plug wires are gone. I am now looking for a crank as I don't want to add a starter; battery and generator as it did not come with them. Not a garden tractor but still a fun retirement project.
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| 15 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| skunkhome |
Posted - 10/21/2017 : 21:01:02
Dave you will need to cut a video when you get it finished. I’m curious to see how it will follow the tow unit. It would be cool if it made only one track. |
| Count Macula |
Posted - 10/11/2017 : 18:42:19
quote:
Originally posted by B10Dave
Count; are you trying to complicate my life?   The steering actually works quite well with the 1 to 1 set up as it is now. The small change I still intend to make is to change the flat tubing tongue for a solid piece of flat steel and move my tie rod back towards the pivot point about 1 1/2 inches and cut off the excess length of steering arm at the wheel end. The flat tubing is too thin of a gauge and flexes a bit under loading and push/pulling so it has to go.
First off I didn't say it before but, I think this cart is really cool, totally my style!
Actually a co-worker was talking to me about BMW's integral active steering, so I had been researching this about a week ago! At low speed the rears never exceed 3 degrees of rotation. I think this is the "magic" number before the vehicle becomes too responsive and loses the anticipated driving dynamics. Anyway, I then saw this thread and thought how could one emulate that mechanically? I meant not to digress or to detract from the awesomeness of this creation.
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| B10Dave |
Posted - 10/11/2017 : 17:13:25
Count; are you trying to complicate my life? The steering actually works quite well with the 1 to 1 set up as it is now. The small change I still intend to make is to change the flat tubing tongue for a solid piece of flat steel and move my tie rod back towards the pivot point about 1 1/2 inches and cut off the excess length of steering arm at the wheel end. The flat tubing is too thin of a gauge and flexes a bit under loading and push/pulling so it has to go. |
| ByronC |
Posted - 10/11/2017 : 06:42:58
As stubborn as I am, Me Be Learning! |
| Cvans |
Posted - 10/10/2017 : 22:22:49
Going to be interesting to see how this turns out.
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| Count Macula |
Posted - 10/10/2017 : 18:35:41
quote:
Originally posted by B10Dave
I wasn't happy with the steering geometry so I changed it. I then mounted the power unit. With the weight on it the steering still isn't what I want so I will make another small change. But in the meantime I can now move it around in and out of my shop with relative ease.
...in my head this works out....
If you add a center lever pivot and make it longer biased the input side, you could essentially change the ratio at which you turn the rear wheels in relation to the front.
Because you know, you need some more engineering in this cart.
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| skunkhome |
Posted - 10/08/2017 : 22:07:17
Wow, that power unit is bigger than I thought. |
| Cvans |
Posted - 10/08/2017 : 09:35:02
Thanks Dave. Figured you must have a reason and it makes sense now.
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| B10Dave |
Posted - 10/08/2017 : 00:02:27
Chris; that yoke is the rear pivot point of the axle when it is in a Sim/Allis tractor. It goes through a bushing that mounts to the tractor frame under the engine and allows the front axle to follow the contours of the ground you are mowing. The mower front mounts attach to the holes in the yoke brackets. Because the yoke pivot points were facing each other I welded a tube between them to help keep the axles from trying to tip. There are also angle iron pieces welded under the frame rails and to the face of the axles. |
| Cvans |
Posted - 10/07/2017 : 21:51:28
Please excuse my ignorance but I have a question. It appears that the trailer frame is is welded both axles. There is a pipe running under the center of the trailer that attaches to the inside of each axle via a yoke. What is that for? |
| B10Dave |
Posted - 10/07/2017 : 21:06:28
I wasn't happy with the steering geometry so I changed it. I then mounted the power unit. With the weight on it the steering still isn't what I want so I will make another small change. But in the meantime I can now move it around in and out of my shop with relative ease.
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| mikeman |
Posted - 10/06/2017 : 10:41:28
Very nice work!!! |
| Cvans |
Posted - 10/04/2017 : 22:57:16
That came out much simpler than I envisioned. Darned nice engineering!
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| skunkhome |
Posted - 10/04/2017 : 21:27:21
That thing might turn tighter than the tow vehicle. |
| B10Dave |
Posted - 10/04/2017 : 19:51:10
Put a link to the front axle today and added the link between the steering arms. Still need to make a detachable handle/tongue and change the tires/wheels for the narrower FDT type. It's getting there.
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