Mercruiser MEFI-3 ECM Delphi 16237009

Printed from: Michael's Tractors (Simplicity and Allis Chalmers Garden Tractors)
Topic URL: http://www.michaelstractors.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=199
Printed on: 11/23/2024

Topic:

Topic author: B112
Subject: Mercruiser MEFI-3 ECM Delphi 16237009
Posted on: 08/12/2007 12:17:58
Message:

Replies:

Reply author: bigdisplay442
Replied on: 04/15/2009 22:14:25
Message:

While doing an INTERNET search, I came across this posting on your forum. I just bought a Marine MPFI system for my truck and the information provided here is AWESOME. It's the reason I joined this site ( even though I do enjoy garden tractors. I sold my 1969 J/D about 2 years ago and I have other G/T projects in the works ) I want to say thanks for making all of you research public and I'll be using your references quite often while I'm doing my install and tuning.

Thanks,
Chres

Reply author: B112
Replied on: 04/16/2009 06:39:13
Message:

Chres- glad to hear it helping. I'll be adding information as I get it. Stuck on a Gas tank repair right now on the boat.

Reply author: tomt
Replied on: 05/07/2009 08:56:06
Message:

First off, this is the most impressive EFI-3 page I have ever seen! I truly appreciate it!

I had a strange port engine problem on my boat (quick explanation: it started running about 5 times too rich and then after a while changed to running about 3 times too lean - in neither case would it run over about 2,200 rpm) that has ultimately turned out to be a bad computer. The engines are 1999 Mercruiser 7.4MPI inboards. My computer is a Delphi 16236999 with a Mercruiser part number of 861720T1 or 861720T2 (the latter number simply superseded the former and are the same part with a different number).

My problem now is that this part has been discontinued and is "No Longer Available." It has been replaced with a conversion kit number 891897A01 that apparently contains an EFI-4 computer and a conversion wiring harness. The only problem is that it costs twice what the EFI-3 unit cost! And there is a fair amount of labor involved in installing the conversion wiring harness.

So, does anyone know where I can find the original part either new, used, or rebuilt?

Once I have a replacement in hand, I'll be happy to donate this unit to Michael if he can use it and if it is not needed for a core charge.

Thanks!
Tom

Reply author: B112
Replied on: 05/07/2009 18:40:45
Message:

Tom how did you diagnose that you have a bad computer?

Reply author: tomt
Replied on: 05/10/2009 13:58:47
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quote:

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Originally posted by B112

Tom how did you diagnose that you have a bad computer?

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Reply author: B112
Replied on: 05/14/2009 17:28:24
Message:

Tom, I'll keep an eye out for another on ebay. I'm still looking for a used harness if one is available.

Reply author: 69chevguy
Replied on: 07/18/2009 13:52:22
Message:

what a great post!! I just purchased a used 2001 arizona speed and marine ram jet 502,and the wiring is a mess so im trying to figure out the best path to take, new wiring harnes for the efi 3, or the new efi 4 with wiring kit for around 650.00, any help would be very appreciated kris..

Reply author: B112
Replied on: 07/18/2009 18:07:56
Message:

quote:

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Originally posted by 69chevguy

what a great post!! I just purchased a used 2001 arizona speed and marine ram jet 502,and the wiring is a mess so im trying to figure out the best path to take, new wiring harnes for the efi 3, or the new efi 4 with wiring kit for around 650.00, any help would be very appreciated kris..

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Reply author: 69chevguy
Replied on: 07/18/2009 21:55:40
Message:

Hey thanks for the quick responce michael,ive got this link to this site i found,what do you think..MEFI 4 ECM & Wire Harness Kit, Ram Jet 502 (12499117)-http://www.karlperformanceparts.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=939

Reply author: B112
Replied on: 07/19/2009 06:48:44
Message:

From what I read the MEFI4 is better than the MEFI3 due to the newer closed loop system. From my searching around, I'd say the price for that kit is good. I'm not sure how bad you're wiring on your MEFI3 is, so it's a tough call which will be better for you.

I've had success getting my MEFI3 system to work and I've calibrated it some with the MEFI Burn Software. I'll paste a link to the second round of dyno testing in this reply a little later.

Here's the link to the results of the dyno testing after the rebuild of a 415hp stock Mercruiser EFI system:

http://www.michaelstractors.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=22

Reply author: tomt
Replied on: 08/27/2009 22:27:52
Message:

quote:

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Originally posted by B112

Tom, I'll keep an eye out for another on ebay. I'm still looking for a used harness if one is available.

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Reply author: btribut
Replied on: 11/05/2009 03:26:10
Message:

Hello all,
I have a mefi3 on a 4.3 mercruiser I am attempting to install in a 1986 Rinker. The engine came from a bravo setup and I am connecting it to an alpha drive. Latest issue encountered is that is won't seem to advance time. I am told by the mechanic that without a load... I guess in neutral the engine runs fine and when rev'ed the timing advances correctly. However under a load in gear connected to a dyno there is now timing advance. Any ideas what could be the issue?

Reply author: cbernhardt
Replied on: 04/23/2010 08:39:36
Message:

Does anyone have a source for the connector pins used in the J1 and J2 connectors used to connect the wiring harness to the MEFI controller? I need three of these pins.
Or does anyone have an old MEFI wiring harness that they would like to get rid of?

Thanks,
Charles

Reply author: B112
Replied on: 04/23/2010 11:45:00
Message:

Hi Charles, I've not tried to aquire these yet, but I was looking for a bad cable. I am going to contact someone about a bad cable, if I find out more will let you know. I am in the process of finishing the assembly of my engine and the work on my boat over the next few weeks. Will let you know.

Reply author: cbernhardt
Replied on: 04/26/2010 05:50:11
Message:

Michael:
The pins I was looking for are in a 32 pin weather proof connector that has a plastic snap on cover. I finally found a part number printed on the plastic cover and an internet search turned up this Delphi data sheet for the connector.
http://connectors2.delphi.com/dcsgdmcs/del/attachments/Printed%20Catalog%20Selection/Micro100Wheader.pdf
From this information I got the part number for the pin I was looking for.
http://gb.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=12084913virtualkey63000000virtualkey829-12084913

Charles

Reply author: B112
Replied on: 04/26/2010 07:05:04
Message:

Charles, excellent! Thanks for contributing those links.

Reply author: richardpoconnor
Replied on: 05/14/2011 21:24:21
Message:

I need help. Here's the situation:
My Mercruiser ECM went south.

My Mercury ECM Part #861926T3 no longer available. My unit was built by Delphi Automotive Services, Kokomo, IN with part number 16236999 it has a bar code 833999KA00037571 (I think the first 8 digits are model, the last 8 are the serial number for this unit).

My ECM runs a Mercruiser 5.7 EFI (MEFI-3), 350 cubic inch, 310 hp, GM engine (Chevy 8 cylinder converted by Mercury for marine use). The boat is a 2000 Searay 26’ Sundancer, so the ECM dates back to 2000.

Problem:
Engine starts right up, runs perfectly for hours. After shutting down engine, it will start right up again, then immediately stall. It will continue to start right up then immediately stall until I give up. If I wait couple hours (I assume when the ECM cools off), it starts right up and runs perfectly. My good mechanic thought it might be faulty ignition coil, but that checked out OK. He then noticed when he ran diagnostics on the engine, there were no reported faults, but the engine hours reported by the ECM would add an hour of engine run time for every ten minutes of actual time. Mechanic called Mercury who said I had a bad ECM (stalling and goofy engine hours) and needed a new one for $2,660! The original ECM (861926T3) is no longer available (it use to cost $1,500), replaced by new unit with a conversion harness kit for older boats. Replacement unit Part #892798A01 with conversion kit from Mercury costs $2,660!

My first option is to find a competent, daring techy who will open up my unit and see if “cleaning” it (or whatever they do) will give it a couple more years of life. I know ECMs can be “re-built” and/or re-programmed, but none of the companies I called will work on a marine ECM (but it is a GM engine). I don’t know how to get info on re-programming it, but I’m hoping that it might be just a bad connection that could be soldered or cleaned.

My second option is to find a used one on EBay. I have looked but none being sold now. One was sold on Ebay couple years ago for $450! Does anybody have a Mercury Part #861926T3, also know as Delphi 1623699? Will a Delphi 16237009 which looks identical to mine (Mercruiser MEFI-3 for a 1999 Mercruiser GM 502 Vortec Gen VI Mercury engine), or similar ECMs, work on my engine?

My last option is to buy new ECM for $2,660 …. bummer, or just quit boating.

Reply author: B112
Replied on: 05/15/2011 15:22:19
Message:

I'm going to suggest more testing of the ECM you have. I actually have two ECM's one I am going to reprogram (already matched my program) and the other is the orginal which I will not touch (it will be my constant or control). I eventually may disect one to see what the circuit boards are, but I probably will never get that time.

Before you gave up boating, you may just consider a carb. Though everyone tells me the reliability of the electronic ignition is much better and that's why I am staying with it. My engine dyno guy when we ran my engine generated more HP/Torque with a carb and was insisting for me to switch to a carb.

Reply author: got2boat
Replied on: 03/27/2012 17:08:52
Message:

I'm not getting spark for ignition and my mechanic tells me he thinks it's the MEFI-3 ECM. It's a 1999 5.7 EFI for a bravo3.

Is there anything else to test? I found this a SB on a sensor failure here www.boatfix.com/merc/bullet/99/99_04.PDF

Any ideas on fix would be appreciated.

Still looking hard for a replacement.

We have only found new a mefi4 kit that is supposed to work, but is crazy expensive.

Reply author: B112
Replied on: 03/27/2012 22:04:24
Message:

My mechanic years ago diagnosed this as a bad computer. He was wrong. I had a bad wire going to my distributor which was intermittent. I setup my harness and tested every wire on a test bed. I'd suggest tracing back from the plugs to the computer any parts which can be bad and replace those first.

Look at the Red/Black, Tan/Black and White wires. They are probably these three(but I am not sure - I need to look at my harness or another manual):

J1-3 Ignition Control (Ref. Low)
J1-10 Ignition Control Signal
J1-24 Ignition Control Bypass

Those would have electronic drivers in that computer which would control the distributor. Don't put a meter on those what ever you do unless the repair manual tells you you can. You don't want to burn the driver circuit in the computer. Check those wires from the computer when it's disconnected all the way to your distributor for breaks and if it's not connected to the computer use a ohm meter to check for breaks.

Your problem can be in the distributor, the coil, the computer or in the wires. That's it. I'd bet against it being your computer and look at swapping out the cheaper parts and check the wires first. Good luck and let me know what you find.

Reply author: got2boat
Replied on: 03/30/2012 17:08:56
Message:

quote:

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Originally posted by B112

Your problem can be in the distributor, the coil, the computer or in the wires.

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Reply author: B112
Replied on: 03/30/2012 21:06:14
Message:

Got2Boat, I was reading my Service Manual which is for the 502EFI. Chart 7 is the Ignition System Check. The complete test does not seem to ever point to the ECM being bad. From my short read of this test, I believe the computer reads the distributor voltages as a sensor input to the computer program. I don't believe you need the ECM to generate a spark or time the engine. I believe the only control the ECM has on the timing/spark is the ability to advance the distributor. Thus, I don't think your ECM is preventing a spark in your system. Now your ECM does control when your injectors inject gas, how long these are open. So if your ECM was bad, you would not be getting gas in your cylinders. It would not be a spark problem. The tests of your engine are detailed and in the manual. While I don't have your manual, you can order it from Mercury and you'll have your exact engine tests. Let me know what your mechanic says. I also know that they can call Mercury and Mercury will help with the diagnosis (only if they are a true Mercury dealer). I had a mechanic contact Mercury with me on the phone and we diagnosed my engine. My biggest problem was an intermittent loose connection on my distributor circuit. After that was solved, my engine was extremely reliable, except for a leak down problem which has since been solved. Hope this helps, let me know what you find.

Reply author: B112
Replied on: 03/30/2012 21:25:58
Message:

quote:

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Originally posted by got2boat


1) do you have a link to a manual, or a video?

2) I'm assuming "no user serviceable parts inside" for the mefi3.

3) Is there ever an issue with cleaning the contacts, bent contacts?

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Reply author: got2boat
Replied on: 04/02/2012 22:30:03
Message:

Hi Michael,
That insight about the ECM and the spark really supports your original diagnosis. I'm brining in a different mechanic who does more work with fuel injected engines. His initial thoughts was also that the ECM rarely goes. I'm going to print this out for him too.

I'll let you know what happens.

Thanks again.

Reply author: got2boat
Replied on: 04/20/2012 23:18:50
Message:

quote:

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Originally posted by B112

3= I personally have not had a connector problem, but I did find two bad wires in my harness. One was the wire going to my distributor (engine stalled) and the other was a sender wire (temperature sender pinned the needle).

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Reply author: B112
Replied on: 04/21/2012 06:18:26
Message:

>> "If I don't get 3 hits it's broken"? I'd say yes, but I'd also check for shorts between them also.

From what I read, the engine should run (spark) without the computer. A fail safe where the engine just doesn't run well. Thus I'd recheck your distributor, coil and the Ignition control module which is in your distributor.

Take a look at this manual: (see page 4-11 for ohm meter tests)

http://www.pleasurecraft.com/manuals/L510004.pdf

Reply author: got2boat
Replied on: 05/17/2012 17:40:11
Message:

The diagram you show at the top of the post does not correspond to the "MEFI 3 5.0L EFI and 5.7L EFI Engines" diagram in service manual #24 that was here http://www.maxumownersclub.com/forum/site_files/manuals/mercruiser/24.pdf

It looks like a different harness whether it is Alpha or Bravo.

I can't determine where the wires in question: J1-3, J1-10 and J1-24 connect to the IC module. The distributor is tough to get at, but all I see going into the distributor is White/Gr, White/Red and Black.

According to the diagram, I'm not seeing those wire colors coming out of J1.

Note: I just tried to attach a copy of the page as a jpg file, but it said "this file can not be uploaded". It was about 350K. The diagram in question is page 4E-17 from the manual linked above.

OK, you could browse to this for a full page view:
http://www.freeimagehosting.net/dqsc5

Hopefully this image link works:

Reply author: sievert
Replied on: 05/31/2012 08:39:28
Message:

I have a Shamrock with a Mercury engine with exactly the same controller as you have pictures of. The engine works fine up to 1600 rpm, then it coughs. We have changed the distributor and sparkplugs. Is this a controller problem you have heard about? Anybody that can test the controller or should I buy a new one?

Reply author: B112
Replied on: 05/31/2012 10:05:41
Message:

Hum coughs at 1600. I wouldn't think it's the CPU, but a sensor failing to give the CPU the right inputs. Basically the CPU is a set of formulas (remember your algebra days), the inputs are the sensors which are converted to numbers. After the formula is calculated the resulting numbers are used to time how much fuel and when you get it. If your inputs are off, you don't get fuel at the right times. So what you need to figure out is if your spark is failing at 1600 due to the distributor or if your fuel is starving or too much is getting injected. Also, if you have fuel problems, you may need new injectors (which I am told is expensive.)

Bob at MEFI Burn is a great reference. I have all his hardware/software. I wrote my own code also, but he knows the codes for the controllers. Some how he got the codes. He does not have all the codes, though. He also knows how to program these. I intend to experiment based on working with a dyno-shop. Very minor tweaks, and I'll be calling Bob. As long as you buy his equipment he'll support you.

Michael's Tractors (Simplicity and Allis Chalmers Garden Tractors) : http://www.michaelstractors.com/forum/